I had planned six days before the start of the pilgrimage—to adjust to the time difference and see everything that was easily accessible. For the first few days, I wandered around the center, absorbing all the sounds, smells, and sights. And then the rains began. So what do you do in Kathmandu when it rains? I typed the question into Google. “Street food tour,” Google suggested. Apparently, Google believes food is a universal answer to any life question. And, generally speaking, it’s right.
I’m careful about what I eat, especially while traveling, but this time curiosity won over caution. I booked the tour and showed up at the hotel entrance at the appointed time. There were six of us, including the guide. Dipak—smiling and attentive—immediately put everyone at ease. He introduced himself as an expert in Nepali cuisine, and it quickly became clear that this was true: he knows every alley in Thamel, every restaurant, stall, and café, and each place comes with its own story.
The other participants had just arrived in Kathmandu and were preparing to trek around Annapurna. I stood out—I had come to “chill” first, and then go on pilgrimage. But despite our different goals, food united us all.
We visited several small restaurants and shops. At the first place, we tried keema noodles with a spicy sauce and masala chai. At the second, a rice pancake with filling—chatamari. At the third, the famous Nepali dumplings, momo, with various fillings. There were street snacks too: panipuri—crispy hollow balls filled with vegetables and chickpeas—and, to finish, real yogurt lassi with pistachios and pomegranate. A true gastronomic feast.
At every stop, Dipak explained what made each dish special, where it originated, and why this particular place could be trusted. It was obvious that he had spent years selecting the best spots and was now sharing with travelers what was truly worth tasting.
What mattered most to me was that Dipak managed to create a light, friendly atmosphere. We weren’t just tasting food—we were laughing together, sharing impressions, asking questions. I learned about Nepali traditions, about how spices are prepared, and even about everyday life in Kathmandu.
That evening, I felt grateful—for the delicious food, for new connections, and for that special atmosphere of trust that a good guide knows how to create.
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